Lonesome valley Knives

Custom Knives

My knife making technique is called stock the stock removal method. I buy knife steel 72” long 1” tall 1/8” thick. Cut it to length, profiled and hollow ground with 50 grit belt, then drill holes for the handle. The metal is now ready for heat treatment. I have chosen to employ a heat treatment company for this process. Metallurgy is an art of its own. Their results are perfect every time, this allows me to provide a better product for my customers. When back from heat treatment the blade is reground with 120 grit, then 220 grit, finally 400. After that a light polish to the area that will not be under the handle. My most common handle materials are elk antler, and mesquite wood, I have also done a few with laminate wood and Micarta. All handle materials are attached in the same manner. Sanded to the rough desired shape on the outside, insides sanded exactly flat so not to have any gap against the metal. Steel pins and epoxy are used to attach the handle halves. Final sanding usually with 600 grit, light polish brings the handle to a satin finish. The last steps to the knife are sharpening and etching Lonesome Valley Knives on the blade. The sheaths are leather. I start with a paper pattern, making it 3/4 “longer and wider on one side than the blade. I like the leather to rise about 2/3 the way up the handle. Also a 1” by 3” strip at the top, this will fold over and act as the belt loop. If the paper pattern fits the shape of the knife to my intentions, I’ll scissor cut the leather out. Wet the inside of the leather lightly, form it around the knife tightly and hold it there with close pins. When it has dried completely color it with dye and let that dry, fold the 1” strip backwards and stitch it in place. A welt is then made, this will be sewn between two long folds, it protects the stitches from the sharp edge of the knife. The welt will be the length of the sheath about ½” wide, and the same shape as the open flaps. Glue it in place and sew the open flaps together. All sharp corners are smoothed. Final inspection is always necessary with both knife and sheath. All sewing is done by hand, with two needles using the saddle stitch. All grinding and polishing is done all by hand, no platforms or gigs, or grinding aids are ever used. Only using my hands to hold the blade to the spinning belt.

Cigar Cutters,

I use the same metal as my knives. I start with two case halves, cut a large hole and groove in each half. These are put together using pins as rivets. The two case halves are now a case assembly. The blade is then sized to fit the groove, and sharpened. Thin wood pieces are attached to the case assembly, held by epoxy and pins, finish sanded and polished. The blade gets a small tab of brass or silver, soldered to the top. This aids in opening the cutter. The blade is etched with Lonesome Valley Knives logo, and held into the case by a small screw. Cigar cutters come with a leather pouch for protection; they are made in much the same way as knives’ sheaths.

Steak Turners

I start with 1/4” solid stainless steel rod cut to length. A sharp point is ground to one end, approx 60 degree. The first bend is just less than 180 degrees, second bend is 90 degree to the first . The handle end gets a flat spot ground 1”up, this helps give the handle integrity. The handles are usually Antler, or wood. 1/4” hole drilled approx 2” into one end, epoxy holds the handle on. Rough sand handle to shape, finish sand with 600 grit, light polish to satin finish. A rubber cap placed on sharpened end for transportation, and handle is drilled with small hole, and string loop attached for hanging when not in use.